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So ok, there was one place, I managed to find in Nice- amidst the many artisan boulangers, cafes and artisanale textile and souvenir randomness, which I wouldn't exactly call fruitless. Lonely Planet advised trying the Soupe Au Pistou at Lou Piliha Leva, a delightful little open air, bench and table seating little deli, at the edge of vielle ville (old town) Nice.

Soupe au Pistou

At one glance, you would think, I am paying €7.00 for a boring vegetable soup? However, I convinced myself I needed something else other than kebabs and contemporary North African-integrated France that was getting to me. Until I found out, the KEY ingredient that makes the boring vegetable soup a French Culinary extraordinare, and the French, well... French is voila! Le Pistou.

an intense concentration of garlic, cheese, oil and tomato paste that knocks those poor little naked veggies ecstatically flat

Well, a sure kill is the fact that it's basically just french for Pesto.

It was, without a doubt a vegetable soup. And for a bit Lou Piliha's mules frites (Mussels in cream and herb sauce served with fries) seemed rather the obvious choice. But it was really mind blowingly good- even for a hungry stomach- nourishing and filling.

Best served with grated Parmesan.

Here is a great, and simple recipe for Soupe Au Pistou. Vegan and simple. The epitome of healthy, contemporary living.

Stock

1 1/2 tbsp olive oil

1 medium onion, thickly sliced

1 celery stalk, chopped

1 head fennel, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

2 plum tomatoes, quartered

4 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

3 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

Soup

1 1/2 tbsp olive oil

1 cup diced onion

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1/2 cup diced carrot

1 cup diced celery

1/2 cup chopped parsley

1 tbsp minced fresh thyme

1 1/2cups drained and chopped canned plum tomatoes

2 cans (15 ounces each) white cannelini beans, rinsed and drained

6 tsp prepared pesto or extra-virgin olive oil

For the stock: 

In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat oil over medium heat; stir in ingredients. Cover. Cook until vegetables are soft, about 30minutes. Add 8 cups water. Bring to a boil. Lower heat; simmer for 45 minutes. Strain, reserving broth and half the vegetables. Skim fat. Discard thyme and bay leaf. Puree reserved vegetables in a blender. Stir into stock.

For the soup: 

Heat oil in the same pot. Sauté onion, garlic, carrot, celery, and herbs. Add reserved broth, tomatoes and beans. Bring to a boil. Lower heat; simmer 30 to 45 minutes. Ladle into bowls; drizzle with pesto or oil.